People assume buttercream is just sweet and that's the end of it. Done well, it's a whole palette. Here are five I reach for when someone says 'surprise me'.

1. Salted caramel

The crowd-pleaser. A proper caramel cooked to amber, a serious pinch of salt, folded through silky buttercream. It tames the sweetness and makes people go back for a second slice they didn't plan on.

2. Lotus Biscoff

Warm, spiced and a little bit addictive. Biscoff buttercream tastes like the inside of a cinnamon bun, which — given my Swedish leanings — I'm completely fine with.

3. Lemon

The one I recommend when a cake needs to feel fresh rather than rich. Sharp, bright, and brilliant with a raspberry filling. Perfect for spring and summer celebrations.

4. Espresso

Grown-up and a little moody. A shot of real espresso cuts straight through the sugar, which makes it a favourite for evening parties and anyone who claims they 'don't really like cake'.

5. Cherry Bakewell

Almond and cherry, the most comforting double act in baking. It tastes like a Sunday at someone's nan's house, and I mean that as the highest compliment.

Flavour is where a cake stops being decoration and starts being a memory.